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Gibson Pickup Quick Connect Adapter/Install

JarrodL

New member
Joined
Nov 13, 2021
Messages
9
Hi guys,


I have a Gibson les Paul that I am trying to swap in Gibson pickups that only have a ground/lead wire. When I opened up the guitar I noticed pots use the newer quick connect plugs. I’ve searched around for a solution as to how I can adapt these pickups to this system. I figured someone here might be able to point me in the right direction. I attached some photos here. Thanks in advance for any help!
01.jpg
02.jpg
03.jpg
 

gibson-r8

Active member
Joined
Jul 15, 2004
Messages
492
Not to be a crochity old coot, but I would rip all of that out and replace with a good set of CTS pots and decent caps. What pickups are in it? And what is going in?

And welcome to the forum! more pictures are always appreciated.
 

ADP

Active member
Joined
Jul 16, 2015
Messages
164
You can rip that out and sell the harness on Reverb to pay for a new set of CTS pots and some tone caps.

Otherwise you'll need to splice the wires and connect the pickups to the clips that were used with the factory pickups.
 

JarrodL

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Joined
Nov 13, 2021
Messages
9
Thanks guys I appreciate the feedback. I'm going to goahead and put some CTS pots in then. I figured there were probably going to be new pots needed but wasn't sure. I'm putting some custom buckers in that I bought but hadn't looked any deeper than that at the time.

Do these look like a good fit?
 

JarrodL

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Nov 13, 2021
Messages
9
Hah I agree, I looked at CreamTone's direct website and it looks like they retail for more than that so I figured it was in the ball park
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2021
Messages
51
Wow…. That’s a lot of money for about 30$ of parts. But it looks like it would do the trick.
Yup.
There's some very solid evidence to point to the idea that the style of cap makes do difference at all, and it's only the value that matters.
Opinions are divided, but after 30 or so years of messing with this stuff, I concur.
So, CTS pots run about $5 apiece, a 100' roll of tinned copper hookup wire might cost $15.
You're gonna have to solder on the pickup, switch and ground wires ANYWAY....
 

JarrodL

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Nov 13, 2021
Messages
9
I appreciate the feedback guys! I have the new pots installed, I haven't soldered anything yet but wanted to check in on your thoughts on what my options are for the 3-way switch and the jack. The switch is 4 wires and I've found some charts that might help but I'm not 100% on those. Does anyone have any idea on how I could utilize the existing switch and where those wires would go? From what I've found, one each to the volume pots and then one as a ground to the jack?

I guess i have the same question for the jack, can I cut the plug and solder those two wires? (and where do they go?)

Thanks again, I appreciate you guys and all the help!
 

PaulD

Active member
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
590
Yes you can cut of the plugs and use the existing switch and jack. With the switch wires black goes to ground (solder to back of one of the pots), red goes to the centre lug of the neck volume control, white goes to the centre lug of the bridge volume control and the green connects to the green wire from the jack socket (black from jack socket is grounded).

Personally if I were doing it I would replace the wire from the jack socket with a length of shielded wire and join that to the green wire from the switch. This would make for a neater wiring job and eliminate the run of unshielded wire across the control cavity but no real problem using the existing wire if that is easier to do.
 
Last edited:

JarrodL

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Nov 13, 2021
Messages
9
Yes you can cut of the plugs and use the existing switch and jack. With the switch wires black goes to ground (solder to back of one of the pots), red goes to the centre lug of the neck volume control, white goes to the centre lug of the bridge volume control and the green connects to the green wire from the jack socket (black from jack socket is grounded).

Personally if I were doing it I would replace the wire from the jack socket with a length of shielded wire and join that to the green wire from the switch. This would make for a neater wiring job and eliminate the run of unshielded wire across the control cavity but no real problem using the existing wire if that is easier to do.
Thanks Paul I appreciate the info! I went ahead and got the pots soldered as well as the copper ground wire (I assume from Bridge?). I'm waiting on a new tip for my Hakko iron but figured I'd check in. Where do I solder the two jack wires? The last thing was that I noticed two black wires from the switch, do those go to the same place? Thanks in advance!

06.jpg
 

PaulD

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Jun 25, 2007
Messages
590
Both the black wires from the switch go to ground, you can just twist them together and solder to the same place. Looking closely at the wire coming from the jack where it splits it looks like it might be shielded wire and I can't tell for sure which wire is the conductor and which is ground? If you have a multimeter you can check for continuity from the metal part of the jack on the outside of the guitar, whichever wire connects to that needs to be grounded and the other wire should be connected to the green wire from the switch. If you don't have access to a multimeter you can take the jack out (remove the 4 screws on the jack plate) and look to see which wire goes where on the jack, post a pic of the jack socket wiring if you are not sure.
 

JarrodL

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Nov 13, 2021
Messages
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Ok awesome thank you Paul. I figured both the blacks were just grounds. As for the jack, yes it does look to be a shielded wire and I do have a multimeter so I'll check that out for sure. I'll check on the meter but I'd assume the center is the conductor? On the upper left of the photo, from what I've found, that copper wire is just a ground from the bridge so I grounded it to the back of the volume pot, do you know if that sounds correct?

I'll post more photos once I solder this all up tomorrow. Thanks again, I think I owe you a beer for all your help
 

PaulD

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Jun 25, 2007
Messages
590
No problem and looking forward to the beer! Yes, the bare wire top left is the tailpiece ground wire so that is correct. What I couldn't be sure about from the picture is the black wire from the jack socket appears to be shielded wire (you can just see the braided shield where the outer insulation is split) so I'm not sure if the centre conductor of the black wire is the feed from the jack or the green wire, it could be that the green wire is just a "tail" connected to the shield and is the ground so you need to check which is which with the multimeter.
 

JarrodL

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Nov 13, 2021
Messages
9
No problem and looking forward to the beer! Yes, the bare wire top left is the tailpiece ground wire so that is correct. What I couldn't be sure about from the picture is the black wire from the jack socket appears to be shielded wire (you can just see the braided shield where the outer insulation is split) so I'm not sure if the centre conductor of the black wire is the feed from the jack or the green wire, it could be that the green wire is just a "tail" connected to the shield and is the ground so you need to check which is which with the multimeter.
Ok I went ahead and tackled everything. I pulled the jack to be sure and included a picture here. It seems like the braided shielded wire is the ground so I'm assuming the green is live and will connect to the green on the switch? I went ahead and soldered it up that but but I'm going to test everything with a multi meter tomorrow before I go any further to be sure but thought I'd shoot these your way. Thanks man!
7.jpg


8.jpg
 

PaulD

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Jun 25, 2007
Messages
590
No, it looks like it should be the other way round. Looking at the picture it looks as though the green wire is a "tail" that connects to the outer braid of the shielded wire, this should be grounded and the black centre conductor should connect to the green wire from the switch. Also the connection between the 2 wires needs to be insulated (heat shrink tubing is the best option for this), if it is left bare as in the photo it will likely come into contact with something that is grounded and you will get no output.
 

JarrodL

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Nov 13, 2021
Messages
9
No, it looks like it should be the other way round. Looking at the picture it looks as though the green wire is a "tail" that connects to the outer braid of the shielded wire, this should be grounded and the black centre conductor should connect to the green wire from the switch. Also the connection between the 2 wires needs to be insulated (heat shrink tubing is the best option for this), if it is left bare as in the photo it will likely come into contact with something that is grounded and you will get no output.
Ok awesome thanks Paul. I hadn't gone any further with this so I will switch that up and check everything with the multimeter then shrink tube everything. Thanks again!
 
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